Uno Hold'em.
Players are dealt eight cards.
Three cards are laid down face up.
From the first card, players play numbers in order until they reach the number on the next card, then start playing from that card.
Players can add cards to get to the next number in the order.
After the second deck has been completed, a new card is placed faced up.
If a player has no cards to play, they draw a card.
Example play:
All players are given eight cards.
The first card that is face up is 1.
The second card that is face up is 4.
Player 1 plays a 2 on the first deck.
Player 2 doesn't have a 3 to play on the first deck, so he takes a 1 and a 2 to add up to get to 3.
Player 3 now must play off of whatever the new top card is.
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Slam Pong!
This is a revision of one of my GDD 110 games.
Player 1 controls:
w - Up
s - Power Slam!
x - Down
Player 2 controls:
num 8 - Up
num 5 - Power Slam!
num 2 - Down
As the players hit the pong ball back and fourth, it builds up power and turns red (the animation advances a frame from green until it's red). Once it's red, the players can power slam the ball, accelerating it dramatically.
All the standard pong rules apply. Two paddles. The ball accelerates every time it is hit.
To power slam, a player must have the ball coming towards them. The INSTANT it hits the paddle, they press their slam key to launch it with great force.
Player 1 controls:
w - Up
s - Power Slam!
x - Down
Player 2 controls:
num 8 - Up
num 5 - Power Slam!
num 2 - Down
As the players hit the pong ball back and fourth, it builds up power and turns red (the animation advances a frame from green until it's red). Once it's red, the players can power slam the ball, accelerating it dramatically.
All the standard pong rules apply. Two paddles. The ball accelerates every time it is hit.
To power slam, a player must have the ball coming towards them. The INSTANT it hits the paddle, they press their slam key to launch it with great force.
Wednesday, April 15, 2009
Revised Fat.
- Removed the D2
- Increased the number of -fat squares.
- All squares having ANYTHING (even fat transfers) to do with fat will result in one die size being gained / lost unless the square says otherwise.
New rules for saving throws:
1-7: Death
8-14: Survival. The player can choose to roll their standard die, or wait this round and get to go up to 1d6 next round
15+: The player gets to move the number on the d20
If the player rolls a natural 19 or 20: Lose fatness. Go up to 1d8
- Increased the number of -fat squares.
- All squares having ANYTHING (even fat transfers) to do with fat will result in one die size being gained / lost unless the square says otherwise.
New rules for saving throws:
1-7: Death
8-14: Survival. The player can choose to roll their standard die, or wait this round and get to go up to 1d6 next round
15+: The player gets to move the number on the d20
If the player rolls a natural 19 or 20: Lose fatness. Go up to 1d8
Tuesday, April 7, 2009
Fat!
Materials:
-Fat board
-1d20, 1d12, 1d10, 1d8, 1d6, 1d4, and a coin (1d2)
Da rules:
To start, each player rolls the d20 and subtracts five from the result. This determines the players' constitution. It will also determine who goes first.
(Constitution makes it so you're less likely to die from fat.)
Each player places their piece on "Start"
To start, all players roll a d20 and go the number of spaces that it says to go.
If a player lands on a +fatness square, the player must go down one die size.
If a player lands on a liposuction transfer square, they can agree to transfer fat to or from another player, affecting their die sizes accordingly. A player cannot go above 1d20 or below 1d2 for transferring fat.
Every time a player crosses the starting line, they add 1d4 to their constitution.
Specific rules:
If a player becomes too fat (example: Jimmy is at 1d2 and lands on a +fatness square), they must make a "saving throw." They take the first digit of their constitution modifier (example: 19 would be 1; 6 would be 6), and add it to 1d20:
1-7: Death
8-14: Survival, but the player cannot roll to move next round
15+: Survival
If the player rolls a natural 19 or 20: Lose fatness. Go up to 1d6
TO WIN:
The player must reach 17 constitution + 1/2 their initial constitution modifier. (example: Jimmie rolled a 14 for his initial constitution modifier, so he will need 24 to win)
-Fat board
-1d20, 1d12, 1d10, 1d8, 1d6, 1d4, and a coin (1d2)
Da rules:
To start, each player rolls the d20 and subtracts five from the result. This determines the players' constitution. It will also determine who goes first.
(Constitution makes it so you're less likely to die from fat.)
Each player places their piece on "Start"
To start, all players roll a d20 and go the number of spaces that it says to go.
If a player lands on a +fatness square, the player must go down one die size.
If a player lands on a liposuction transfer square, they can agree to transfer fat to or from another player, affecting their die sizes accordingly. A player cannot go above 1d20 or below 1d2 for transferring fat.
Every time a player crosses the starting line, they add 1d4 to their constitution.
Specific rules:
If a player becomes too fat (example: Jimmy is at 1d2 and lands on a +fatness square), they must make a "saving throw." They take the first digit of their constitution modifier (example: 19 would be 1; 6 would be 6), and add it to 1d20:
1-7: Death
8-14: Survival, but the player cannot roll to move next round
15+: Survival
If the player rolls a natural 19 or 20: Lose fatness. Go up to 1d6
TO WIN:
The player must reach 17 constitution + 1/2 their initial constitution modifier. (example: Jimmie rolled a 14 for his initial constitution modifier, so he will need 24 to win)
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Updated game!
Housing Bubble Financial Crisis 2008: The Board Game revisions:
Added "risk" cards that make each path have appropriate risk. Most cards disrupt the player (or all players), but some can help, so it's not all bad.
Changed the dice to the following: 1d4 High risk, 1d6 Medium and Low risk.
The game still has some balance issues after these revisions. It's mostly fun, but with balance and added length, it will become playable.
Added "risk" cards that make each path have appropriate risk. Most cards disrupt the player (or all players), but some can help, so it's not all bad.
Changed the dice to the following: 1d4 High risk, 1d6 Medium and Low risk.
The game still has some balance issues after these revisions. It's mostly fun, but with balance and added length, it will become playable.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Prototyping
1.) Prototyping is building a base model from which modifications or later designs can be based.
2.) I think prototyping is important because it's a lot easier to modify a prototype than seventeen million release versions. It's a lot easier to get data out of a prototype as the original creator controls all aspects of it. Prototypes are also very good at demonstrating a simple concept from which later versions can be developed.
3.) Paper prototypes can be used to organize a digital game. A digital game can be expressed as a paper prototype very easily, although the complexity may be greater. The advantage of this is that modifications are easier to make and can be made on the fly without revamping the better part of the game. Also, it's a lot easier to focus on a part of the game rather than the game as a whole. This can in turn make the development process a lot easier and lead to a higher quality game.
4.) To streamline my development process, I'd very much approve of prototypes. They are brilliant at demonstrating concepts without excessive technicality. I also enjoy groups and collaboration, as a game that may seem great inside your head isn't always the best on a table.
2.) I think prototyping is important because it's a lot easier to modify a prototype than seventeen million release versions. It's a lot easier to get data out of a prototype as the original creator controls all aspects of it. Prototypes are also very good at demonstrating a simple concept from which later versions can be developed.
3.) Paper prototypes can be used to organize a digital game. A digital game can be expressed as a paper prototype very easily, although the complexity may be greater. The advantage of this is that modifications are easier to make and can be made on the fly without revamping the better part of the game. Also, it's a lot easier to focus on a part of the game rather than the game as a whole. This can in turn make the development process a lot easier and lead to a higher quality game.
4.) To streamline my development process, I'd very much approve of prototypes. They are brilliant at demonstrating concepts without excessive technicality. I also enjoy groups and collaboration, as a game that may seem great inside your head isn't always the best on a table.
Tuesday, March 17, 2009
Defcon Fun!
Setup:
1 board
Stack of effectiveness cards
Stack of disarm cards
Stack of apocalypse cards
Tokens to track positions
1d20 die
1.) Players roll to determine who goes first. Highest number wins, gameplay goes counter-clockwise. Lowest roll becomes the nuclear armed nation.
2.) All players (incl. nuclear nation) place their tokens on start and the nuclear token on "Neutral"
The Game:
The goal is to prevent the nuclear armed country from launching their nukes by using diplomacy. As you play cards, they affect the nuclear token, pushing it closer to apocalypse or disarmament.
Effectiveness determines how effective you are in using your country. It also keeps the game balanced by disallowing some cards being played in the beginning.
1.) Roll the D20 and go the number of spaces it says. If you land on the proper square (Diplomatic countries = 'D', Nuclear country = 'A'), take the appropriate card. If you're on the opposing square, see rule #4.
2.) Each card has a description written on it. The required effectiveness to play the card is stated in the top right corner.
3.) Every time you play a card, it will 'tap' your effectiveness.
EX: A player has two total effectiveness and plays a card that costs one effectiveness. That player only has one effectiveness left to use this round. 'Tapped' effectiveness returns after one round.
4.) It costs one effectiveness to draw your card from an opposing faction's space.
EX: Nuclear country lands on a 'D' space. They must pay one effectiveness to draw an 'A' card.
*You may only play cards anytime during your turn, unless the card is special.
**Card trading is prohibited unless a special card dictates otherwise.
***Players may not reveal their hands to anyone else unless a special card dictates otherwise.
1 board
Stack of effectiveness cards
Stack of disarm cards
Stack of apocalypse cards
Tokens to track positions
1d20 die
1.) Players roll to determine who goes first. Highest number wins, gameplay goes counter-clockwise. Lowest roll becomes the nuclear armed nation.
2.) All players (incl. nuclear nation) place their tokens on start and the nuclear token on "Neutral"
The Game:
The goal is to prevent the nuclear armed country from launching their nukes by using diplomacy. As you play cards, they affect the nuclear token, pushing it closer to apocalypse or disarmament.
Effectiveness determines how effective you are in using your country. It also keeps the game balanced by disallowing some cards being played in the beginning.
1.) Roll the D20 and go the number of spaces it says. If you land on the proper square (Diplomatic countries = 'D', Nuclear country = 'A'), take the appropriate card. If you're on the opposing square, see rule #4.
2.) Each card has a description written on it. The required effectiveness to play the card is stated in the top right corner.
3.) Every time you play a card, it will 'tap' your effectiveness.
EX: A player has two total effectiveness and plays a card that costs one effectiveness. That player only has one effectiveness left to use this round. 'Tapped' effectiveness returns after one round.
4.) It costs one effectiveness to draw your card from an opposing faction's space.
EX: Nuclear country lands on a 'D' space. They must pay one effectiveness to draw an 'A' card.
*You may only play cards anytime during your turn, unless the card is special.
**Card trading is prohibited unless a special card dictates otherwise.
***Players may not reveal their hands to anyone else unless a special card dictates otherwise.
Dots: Maze style writeup
The test went well. Players seemed to enjoy it, but I didn't finish the rules quite properly.
1.) It was pretty involved, but players can fall out of the game very early and gang up on each other. There are anti ganging up rules, however.
2.) Forgot to tell players that they could draw another line after they completed a box. Will put in revised rules.
1.) It was pretty involved, but players can fall out of the game very early and gang up on each other. There are anti ganging up rules, however.
2.) Forgot to tell players that they could draw another line after they completed a box. Will put in revised rules.
Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Dots: Maze style
Setup:
- Draw a 20x20 grid of dots on a paper. Draw a solid line around the edges.
Play:
1.) Players place their tokens on the board, wherever they want to start.
2.) At the start of each player's turn, they move their token one space. Players cannot move diagonally.
3.) After they have moved their token, the player draws a line between two dots.
4.) If a complete box is drawn, the player places the initial of their first name in it to keep track of how many boxes they've completed.
Rules:
1.) You can't move through a line.
2.) No more than two lines can be drawn from a single dot PER ROUND (that means all players).
3.) If you get boxed in, you lose.
How to win:
1.) Be the only player not to be boxed in.
2.) If all players make it to the end of the game, the player with the most boxes wins.
- Draw a 20x20 grid of dots on a paper. Draw a solid line around the edges.
Play:
1.) Players place their tokens on the board, wherever they want to start.
2.) At the start of each player's turn, they move their token one space. Players cannot move diagonally.
3.) After they have moved their token, the player draws a line between two dots.
4.) If a complete box is drawn, the player places the initial of their first name in it to keep track of how many boxes they've completed.
Rules:
1.) You can't move through a line.
2.) No more than two lines can be drawn from a single dot PER ROUND (that means all players).
3.) If you get boxed in, you lose.
How to win:
1.) Be the only player not to be boxed in.
2.) If all players make it to the end of the game, the player with the most boxes wins.
Wednesday, March 4, 2009
Housing Bubble Financial Crisis 2008: The Board Game
1.) Players roll 1d4 to determine who goes first.
2.) Players start on Level 1 (aka 2005). Players go around the circle until they have two properties.
2.5.) When players land on a space, they draw either a LR, MR, or HR card based on what the space tells them.
3.) When players have two properties, they advance to 2006 (aka Level 2).
4.) When players get to the split, they choose the path that they want to take.
HR = High Risk. This path has much reward, but also much chance for failure and debt.
MR = Medium Risk. This path is balanced. Money is based off your play style.
LR = Low Risk. This path will put out a reliable amount of money with little loans, but not much of it.
5.) If players land on a square marked with green, they must draw a 'Socialist card' and do what it says.
6.) Once a player reaches 'CRISIS,' the game ends. The player with the least amount of loans wins at the end. If a player has no loans, their score is determined by the value of their assets.
2.) Players start on Level 1 (aka 2005). Players go around the circle until they have two properties.
2.5.) When players land on a space, they draw either a LR, MR, or HR card based on what the space tells them.
3.) When players have two properties, they advance to 2006 (aka Level 2).
4.) When players get to the split, they choose the path that they want to take.
HR = High Risk. This path has much reward, but also much chance for failure and debt.
MR = Medium Risk. This path is balanced. Money is based off your play style.
LR = Low Risk. This path will put out a reliable amount of money with little loans, but not much of it.
5.) If players land on a square marked with green, they must draw a 'Socialist card' and do what it says.
6.) Once a player reaches 'CRISIS,' the game ends. The player with the least amount of loans wins at the end. If a player has no loans, their score is determined by the value of their assets.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Cards of The Trade.
1.) Players decide who goes first.
2.) Current player rips off a corner of their card (containing a numerical value) and places it face down in the middle of the table. This is called "The Bid."
3.) Each player places one of their ripped corners face down on the table, trying to get their number closest to the bid.
4.) All players flip their corners.
5.) Should any player match the bid exactly, they win the bid. Should more than one player match the bid exactly, the current player gets all corners that match the bid.
6.) If no corners match the bid, the bid goes to the player who was closest to the bid without going over. If all players went over, no one wins and all cards are sent back to their owners.
7.) All unused corners go back to their respective owners.
8.) Should a player run out of corners, they are out.
9.) Once a player has all of one type of corner, they win. (EX: If three players are playing, a player could win if they had three '100' corners.)
2.) Current player rips off a corner of their card (containing a numerical value) and places it face down in the middle of the table. This is called "The Bid."
3.) Each player places one of their ripped corners face down on the table, trying to get their number closest to the bid.
4.) All players flip their corners.
5.) Should any player match the bid exactly, they win the bid. Should more than one player match the bid exactly, the current player gets all corners that match the bid.
6.) If no corners match the bid, the bid goes to the player who was closest to the bid without going over. If all players went over, no one wins and all cards are sent back to their owners.
7.) All unused corners go back to their respective owners.
8.) Should a player run out of corners, they are out.
9.) Once a player has all of one type of corner, they win. (EX: If three players are playing, a player could win if they had three '100' corners.)
Updates and things.
1.) Magnetoship observations:
Players elect a judge.
Each player rolls 1d6. The first player to roll a 3 gets to start the game.
***Rule amended (I deleted it)***: If the second roll is a 6, that player wins.
If anyone rolls a 1, they must go left.
The judge keeps track of all players on a 20x20 grid.
Each player rolls during their turn. If they get a one, they must go left. Roll doesn't matter otherwise.
Players can: Move or shoot (if they have a bow) but not both on the same turn.
Players can't move or shoot diagonally.
You will die if: You are stuck by an arrow, you fall, or you meet the creature.
You will win if: The special creature is slain and you are the last survivor.
3.) This game didn't go to plan. It was an "off the top of my head" sort of thing. It needed some more flare, some more player orientation, and some more player backstabbyness.
- It was actually fun!
- There were dynamics of the game that I didn't account for. I didn't realize how likely the magnets were to stick to each other as they fell.
- Flaw: Magnets would stick to each other through the board.
- Flaw: Pulling some pins would result in the player's own magnets falling.
- Flaw: Sharp objects not good around some people.
Players elect a judge.
Each player rolls 1d6. The first player to roll a 3 gets to start the game.
***Rule amended (I deleted it)***: If the second roll is a 6, that player wins.
If anyone rolls a 1, they must go left.
The judge keeps track of all players on a 20x20 grid.
Each player rolls during their turn. If they get a one, they must go left. Roll doesn't matter otherwise.
Players can: Move or shoot (if they have a bow) but not both on the same turn.
Players can't move or shoot diagonally.
You will die if: You are stuck by an arrow, you fall, or you meet the creature.
You will win if: The special creature is slain and you are the last survivor.
3.) This game didn't go to plan. It was an "off the top of my head" sort of thing. It needed some more flare, some more player orientation, and some more player backstabbyness.
Monday, February 9, 2009
Magnetoship
By: Cameron Lee
Materials: 40 pushpins (steel) and 20 magnets.
Setup: Players put 20 pins on each side of game board while the board is vertical between the two opponents. After all pushpins are placed, each player takes 10 magnets and places them on the end of the other player's push pins.
1.) Players take turns pulling out pins.
2.) First player to cause all the other player's magnets to fall wins.
**NOTE: If a magnet doesn't fall all the way (sticks to another magnet on its way down), it doesn't count as felled. Players can also pattern their magnets as to stay up the best.
Materials: 40 pushpins (steel) and 20 magnets.
Setup: Players put 20 pins on each side of game board while the board is vertical between the two opponents. After all pushpins are placed, each player takes 10 magnets and places them on the end of the other player's push pins.
1.) Players take turns pulling out pins.
2.) First player to cause all the other player's magnets to fall wins.
**NOTE: If a magnet doesn't fall all the way (sticks to another magnet on its way down), it doesn't count as felled. Players can also pattern their magnets as to stay up the best.
Two Nations: Followup
Things I noticed with gameplay for Two Nations:
1.) Lengthy rules, players discouraged to play because of them.
2.) Timed special abilities. Players shouldn't be able to use certain abilities instantly.
3.) Ambiguous rolls: Certain roll circumstances would come up that could cause an argument.
4.) Ties.
5.) Change resource rolls.
6.) What if a die is bumped off the board?
1.) Lengthy rules, players discouraged to play because of them.
2.) Timed special abilities. Players shouldn't be able to use certain abilities instantly.
3.) Ambiguous rolls: Certain roll circumstances would come up that could cause an argument.
4.) Ties.
5.) Change resource rolls.
6.) What if a die is bumped off the board?
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Two Nations
“Two Nations” By: Cameron Lee
Materials: 2d6 (two six sided die) per player. Different colors between players are a must.
The Principal: Each player chooses a nation, and each nation has its own unique advantages. Players roll to increase their nations power, which is divided into three stats: Resources, Offensive Combat, and Defensive Combat. Players use these stats to help them improve, attack, and defend. Interactions between dice are also a big point in this game.
How to play:
Forenote: ALL rolls are to be made over the center of the board between the two nations. When rolling, hold your die about one foot over the center and simply release. This is important for game rules. If a player has to roll 2d6, they may choose to drop one at a time, or both at the same time.
Each player chooses a nation.
Both players roll 1d6 to determine who goes first. Highest number gets first roll.
Offensive Rolls:
1.) If a player chooses to attack the other nation, their resource bonus is put on hold and they cannot modify any of their country's stats.
2.) The attacking player rolls 2d6 over the center of the board. They take the total of both dice and add it to their combat score. If a die lands off the board, only half the number of that die is added to the total for combat- If this happens, always round down if half the number isn't even. (1 becomes 0, 3 becomes 1, 5 becomes 2, etc.)
3.) This will be the end of the attacking player's turn unless they want to use a special ability.
The dice must be left in the exact place which they fell on the table.
Defensive Rolls:
1.) A defending nation takes a -1 on their resource roll if they choose to take a defensive roll, otherwise they gain their normal resource bonus.
2.) If a player has an offensive roll placed against them, they have three rounds to defend themselves. If a player fails to beat the offensive after three rounds, they lose.
3.) A player can choose not to defend themselves in order to modify their country's stats and gain a full resource roll. This will result in taking a defensive loss.
4.) To defend, a player rolls 2d6 over the center of the board. Should their dice bump any of the attacking players dice, they gain half the number on it (again, round down if half isn't an even number). If their roll actually changes a number on the attacking players dice, they gain the full number.
If the total of the defensive roll added to the Defensive Combat stat is less than the opposing player's Offensive Combat total (stat + roll), the defending player takes a defensive loss. If it is their third defensive loss, the player has lost the game.
If, however, the defending player beats the opposing player's Offensive Combat total, all defensive losses are removed and the opposing player takes a loss in all their countries offensive stat equal to how much the defending player beat their Offensive Combat total.
Modifying Your Country:
1.) Each player has a resource roll. Once every two rounds, players make their countries resource roll. The number that they roll can be added to Offensive Combat, Defensive Combat, or both. If a player is attacking, they gain zero resources. If a player is defending, they roll their countries resource roll and subtract one.
Special Abilities:
Blitzkrieg (Germexico only) – “Germexico rapidly mobilizes for combat, giving the defending countries' defenses the slip.” Players using the Germexico country can't be defending or already on an offensive against their opponent when using this ability. Using this ability, the defending country cannot roll to defend themselves. Germexico rolls a standard combat roll and adds their Offensive Combat stat to it. If this is greater than the other countries base Defensive stat, the defending country takes a defensive loss.
If a Germexico Blitzkrieg fails, Germexico permanently loses 5 on its Offensive Combat stat.
Stronghold (Netherswiss only) - “Get diggin' or die!” Players using the Netherswiss country can choose to make a stronghold. The player must choose whether form a stronghold after the first defensive loss only.
Should the player successfully defend themselves for the second combat, they permanently lose -5 on their defensive stat.
Should they fail the second combat and get down to the final (third) combat, the defending player can drop their dice directly on top of the offensive players roll and take all roll bonuses accordingly. If they successfully defend, no penalties will be assigned to the Netherswiss.
Relic (Finnawa'ii only) - “It's so shiny!” The Finnawa'ii discovered a relic long ago that promised fortunes to their people. They can beckon it when they choose. Must be used out of combat.
Player takes all 4d6 and rolls them. Player can spend the total however they choose.
Races:
Germexico Netherswiss Finnawa'ii
Offensive: 6 4 3
Defensive: 3 5 4
Resource: 1+(1d6)/2 per 2 rounds 1+(1d6)/2 per 2 rounds (2d6)/2 per 2 rounds
Always round down! Sorry for the long instructions. Have fun and good luck!
The basic design ideals were to have a dice game but use the dice for more than just numbers.
Wednesday, January 21, 2009
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